The Skin Edit — Eye Care
Dark Circles
Why they happen, and how to treat the type you actually have
By Lindsey Rapp · Licensed Esthetician · 4 Min Read
Dark circles are one of the most common concerns I hear about, and one of the most misdiagnosed. Most people reach for a generic eye cream and wonder why it doesn't work, when the real issue is that dark circles are not one condition. Treating the wrong type is the number one reason nothing seems to help.
Diagnosis
There Are Three Types of Dark Circles
Pigmented circles are brown-toned and caused by excess melanin, often genetic, and more common in deeper skin tones. Vascular circles are blue or purple-toned, caused by blood vessels showing through the thin under-eye skin, often worse with fatigue or dehydration. Structural circles are actually shadows, caused by hollowing or volume loss that creates a shadow under the eye rather than true discoloration.
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Treating the wrong type of dark circle is the number one reason nothing seems to help.
Self-Check
How to Tell Which Type You Have
Gently stretch the skin under your eye. If the discoloration stays the same brown tone, it's pigmented. If it's blue or purple and lightens slightly when stretched, it's vascular. If you see more of a shadow than a true color change, and it's worse in certain lighting, it's likely structural, related to volume loss rather than pigment.
The Edit
What Actually Helps Each Type
For Pigmented Circles
Mela Defense Serum
Tranexamic acid, exactly what I trust for pigmentation, works the same way under the eyes as anywhere else.
Shop · $55
For Vascular & Structural
Active 31 Eye Cream
Supports circulation and skin thickness around the eyes, minimizing blood vessels and shadowing.
Shop · $48Layering
If You're Not Sure Which Type
Most people actually have a combination of two types, which is why layering both a brightening serum and a supportive eye cream tends to outperform using just one product alone. Start with the Mela Defense Serum in the morning under your regular eye cream, and be consistent, pigment correction is gradual, not immediate.
Lifestyle
What Makes Dark Circles Worse
- — Poor sleep, which worsens the vascular, blue-toned type specifically
- — Dehydration, which makes the thin under-eye skin look more translucent
- — Sun exposure without SPF, which can darken pigmented circles further
- — Rubbing or scratching the eye area, which can worsen pigmentation over time
Shop the Story
Target Your Dark Circle Type
Shop the brightening serum and eye cream I recommend for dark circles.
Shop Mela Defense SerumFrequently Asked
Why do I have dark circles even when I sleep well?Genetics, pigmentation, and structural volume loss can all cause dark circles independent of sleep, which is why identifying your type matters.
Can dark circles be permanently fixed with skincare?Pigmented and vascular circles can improve significantly with consistent care. Structural circles from volume loss may need in-office treatment for full correction, though supportive skincare still helps.
Does caffeine help dark circles?Caffeine can temporarily reduce puffiness and vascular discoloration, but it does not address pigmentation, which needs a brightening active like tranexamic acid.
How long until I see improvement?Pigmented circles typically show visible improvement within 4 to 6 weeks of consistent use.
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